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Thread: Germanic Folk Dress

  1. #21
    Senior Member Annikaspapa's Avatar
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    Post Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    Quote Originally Posted by Loki
    Let's explore the rich diversity of Germanic culture, focusing on folk dress, folk music and dance. I will post articles and pictures in this thread as I find them, and I invite everyone else to assist me in this.
    Here is a little something that fits in with the theme of this thread.
    For those with an interest in 'Volksbrauch':

    Goasslschnoizen

    The Goasslschnoizen (Whip-Wielding) is a Bavarian custom, which was practiced by horse-drawn wagon drivers. The Whip (Goassl) consists of a fiberglass rod (a), a twisted cord (B) and tip (C). SEE ATTACHMENT

    The momentum of the whip causes the tip to exceed the speed of sound , thus producing the "crack". Whips are used as a means of communication with the horses, urging then to move and react to commands. However, the horses are never touched.
    Many wagon drivers developed their own recognition signal, which serves to identify them near and far. Since different whip snapping sequences require not only strength but a sense of tempo, contests developed in order to determine the best whip-wielders (Schnoiza).
    Although few people today drive horse-drawn wagons , the customs of the Goasslschnoizens (Whip-Wielders) remain and are still exhibited at birthdays, weddings and at beer fests. Their performance is often accompanied by a well-known Bavarian melody that is usually played with the accordion.
    In earlier times when there were many horse-drawn wagons it was illegal to practice Goasslschnoizen (Whip-Wielding) on the main thoroughfares. Such infractions were punished with a hefty fine which could be as high as a months wages. However, since several court decisions now recognize the Goasslschnoizen as an official form of cultural expression, such complaints of disturbing the peace are now rejected.

    ______________________________


    Das Goasslschnoizen ist ein bayerisches Brauchtum, das von den Fuhrleuten und Pferdekutschern überliefert wurde. Die Goassl besteht aus einer Rute (a), die inzwischen aus Fieberglas angefertigt wird, einem geflochtenen Strick (b) und dem sog. Schmiss (c) .
    Durch einen Schwung mit der Goassl erreicht der Schmiss am äußeren Ende Schallgeschwindigkeit und erzeugt auf diese Weise den Knall. Goassln sind ein Hilfsmittel zur Verständigung mit den Pferden und werden dazu benutzt, um mit dem typischen Knall, dem sog. Schnalzer, die Pferde anzutreiben und zu dirigieren. Dabei werden aber die Pferde niemals berührt.
    Viele Fuhrleute haben ihr eigenes Erkennungssignal komponiert, um sich schon von weitem anzukündigen und zu verständigen. Da verschiedene Schnalz-Folgen nicht nur Kraft sondern auch Geschick und Taktgefühl erfordern, ist sehr schnell ein Wettstreit entstanden, um den besten Schnoiza zu ermitteln.
    Obwohl sich die Anzahl der Fuhrleute im Lauf der Zeit verringerte, hat sich das Brauchtum des Goasslschnoizens erhalten und ist eine beliebte Unterhaltung zu Geburtstagen, Hochzeiten und in Bierzelten geblieben und unterstreicht einen besonderen Anlaß. Bei der Aufführung wird eine bekannte bayerische Melodie meist mit dem Akkordeon gespielt, die zur Untermalung des Schnoiza-Vortrags dient.
    Als es noch viele Pferdefuhrwerke gab, war es bei einer Geldstrafe, die sogar die Höhe eines Monatslohns erreichen konnte, verboten, auf der Hauptstraße zu schnoizn. In unserer Zeit existieren aber mehrere Gerichtsurteile, die das Goasslschnoizen als bayerisches Brauchtum anerkennen und Beschwerden wegen Ruhestörung zurückweisen.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Annikaspapa's Avatar
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    Post Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    Quote Originally Posted by NewHistory
    You still can find the classical
    Lederhose
    ... I've avoided the posting of them because they're just so damn stereotypical – the whole "fat Bavarian with a Maß in one hand and a Radi in the other" image that every simpleton thinks of as some how defining the "real" Germany.

    That being said, for anyone interested, here is a comrhensive site for those with a "leather-fetish". (Ok, get your mind out of the gutter ):
    Das Lederhosen Museum
    http://www.lederhosenmuseum.de
    "Nur der ist seiner Ahnen wert, der ihre Sitten treu verehrt"

  3. #23
    Senior Member Annikaspapa's Avatar
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    Post Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    Here's an interesting story on the current state of affairs in Germany's Trachtenkultur community...

    Von der Oma bis zum Urenkel - traditionelle Trachten sind in Mode

    Wechmar - Sie sind prunkvoll und farbenfroh, mit Perlen und aufwendigen Stickereien verziert oder ganz schlicht gehalten: "Trachten sind unausrottbar", sagt die Direktorin des Museums für Thüringer Volkskunde in Erfurt, Marina Moritz. Rund zwei Millionen Menschen in Deutschland hegen in Vereinen ihre Liebe zur Tracht. "Die Brauchtumspflege erlebt einen ständigen Zuwachs", beobachtet der Bundesvorsitzende des Deutschen Trachtenverbandes, Knut Kreuch.

    Trachten- und Heimatvereine umfassen Generationen - von der Oma bis zum Urenkel. "Es ist ein Gemeinschaftsgefühl da und es gibt in unser schnelllebigen Zeit eine Besinnung auf Werte und Heimat", begründet Kreuch den Zulauf insbesondere auch von Jugendlichen. Der Deutsche Trachtenverband mit Sitz im thüringischen Günthersleben- Wechmar zählt inzwischen 250*000 Jugendliche. Zum ersten deutschen Kinder- und Jugendtrachtenfest werden zu Pfingsten in der kleinen Gemeinde im Kreis Gotha rund 1500 Teilnehmer aus dem In- und Ausland erwartet. Kinder finden es cool, in Trachten zu schlüpfen, sagt Kreuch. Allerdings gelte es, ihre Begeisterung immer wieder aufs Neue zu wecken.

    Als äußeres Erkennungszeichen der Herkunft getragen, bilden Trachten nur einen Teil der Neuinszenierung von Bräuchen. Hinzu kommen Chorgesang, Laienspiel, Volkstanz und Mundart. Vor allem in Bundesländern wie Bayern, Hessen, Baden-Württemberg, Rheinland-Pfalz und Thüringen findet die Trachtenbewegung viele Anhänger. Allein in Thüringen hat sich die Zahl der Trachtenvereine seit der Wende auf jetzt 80 mehr als verdreifacht. Sie bestreiten im Jahr rund 500 Auftritte.

    Die Träger fertigen ihre Trachten nach alten Vorlagen meist selbst. "Sonst wären sie nicht finanzierbar", sagt Kreuch. In der Regel kostet eine Tracht, bis zu deren Fertigstellung manchmal ein Jahr vergeht, zwischen 8000 und 20*000 Euro. Die Wollstoffe werden eigens dafür gewebt. "Trachten sind nicht nur sehr schöne Kleidungsstücke, sie sprechen auch Emotionen an und sind ein Stück Identifikationshilfe", erklärt Museumsdirektorin Moritz die anhaltende Faszination für Tracht und Tradition, die sie damals wie heute als Bollwerk in unsicheren Zeiten sieht.

    Bis zur Französischen Revolution galt der Begriff Tracht noch allgemein für Bekleidung. Erst im 19. Jahrhundert bildeten sich im Zuge der Industrialisierung Trachten als regionalspezifische bäuerliche Kleidung heraus. "Obwohl nur zu besonderen Anlässen getragen und klar zur Mode abgegrenzt, waren sie mehr als nur ein ländliches Kleiderphänomen", sagt die Volkskundlerin. Trachten und ihre Träger gerieten in der Folgezeit zu Sinnbildern und Garanten von Zucht und Ordnung, von Gottesfurcht und Herrschaftstreue. Wer sie trug, galt als arbeitsam, redlich und verlässlich.

    Ein Beispiel dafür, wie Tracht zum Gegenstand politischen Kalküls wurde, gibt eine Sonderschau in Erfurt. Die Ausstellung "Ein Kleid für die Heimat" im Museum für Volkskunde beleuchtet noch bis Ende Oktober die Trachtenpolitik thüringischer Herrschaftshäuser zwischen 1840 und 1918. Sie zeigt, wie Trachten für repräsentative Aufgaben und ideologische Zwecke benutzt wurden.
    "Nur der ist seiner Ahnen wert, der ihre Sitten treu verehrt"

  4. #24
    Senior Member Annikaspapa's Avatar
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    Thumbs Up Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    Quote Originally Posted by NewHistory
    ...I and my family (when they are in Germany) wear these "Trachten".
    So, does this make me wearing the wrong tradional costumes?
    Not at all. I was in no way criticizing you, lederhosen, Bavarians, Austrians, etc. I only meant to point out the limited visions many have of that which defines "German-ness". I fully support anyone who chose to wear clothing that helps enhance their ethnic consciousness, be it a Hamburger Fischerhemd and Elbsegler or Lederhosen - authentic Volkstracht or "Landhausmode" - it's all good.
    "Nur der ist seiner Ahnen wert, der ihre Sitten treu verehrt"

  5. #25
    Senior Member Annikaspapa's Avatar
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    Post Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    While on the topic of Bavarian "fashions" - those in the States and Canada may be interested in knowing that there are a number of societies dedicated to preserving the customs and traditions of the region. More information can be found at: http://gauverbandnordamerika.org/


    Gauverband Nordamerika

    A.S.T.E.V. Edelweiss - Toronto, Ontario
    Almrausch Schuhplattler - Altoona, Pennsylvania
    Alpen Schuhplattler und Trachtenverein - Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
    Alpenland Tänzer - New Britain, Connecticut
    Alpenrose Schuhplattler - Lancaster, Pennsylvania
    Alpenrose Schuhplattler Verein - Coloma, Michigan
    Alpentänzer Schuhplattler - Sacramento, California
    Alpine Dancers G.T.E.V. Edelweiss- Garland, Texas
    "Alt-Washingtonia" Schuhplattler Verein - Washington, DC
    Auerhahn Schuhplattler Verein - Oley / Fleetwood, Pennsylvania
    BGTEV Minnesota Schuhplattler - St Paul, Minnesota
    BGTEV Almenrausch Schuhplattler - Alameda, California
    BGTEV D'Holzhacker Buam - Menomonee Falls, Wisconsin
    BGTEV D'Werdenfelser - Sheboygan, Wisconsin
    BGTV D'Lustigen Holzhacker Buam - Chicago, Illinois
    BGTV D'Lustig'n Wendlstona - Milwaukee, Wisconsin
    Bavarian Club Almenrausch - Liverpool, New York
    Bavarian Club Edelweiss, Westchester - Valhalla, New York
    Bavarian Club Enzian - St Paul, Minnesota
    Bavarian Sports Club Holzhackerbuam - Toledo, Ohio
    Bavarian Verein Alpengruen - Rochester, New York
    Bayern Verein Newark - Union, NJ
    Boys and Girls from the Austrian Alps - Inverary, Ontario Canada
    Clevelander Schuhplattler Verein - Cleveland, Ohio
    Concordia Alpenrose S.V. - Saskatoon, SK Canada
    Concordia Enzian Schuhplattler Verein - Kitchener, Ontario Canada
    Die Bergvagabunden Schuhplattler - Kingston, New York
    Die Gemütlichen Schuhplattler - Anaheim, California
    Die Rathkamp Deutsche Volkstanzgruppe - Houston, Texas
    Edelweiss Alpine Dancers - Phoenix, AZ
    Edelweiss Passaic Schuhplattler Verein - Fairfield, NJ
    Edelweiss Schuhplattler - Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
    Enzian Schuhplattler - Seattle, WA
    Enzian Volkstanzgruppe - Newark, DE
    G.T.E.V. Alpenland - Hamilton, Ontario Canada
    G.T.E.V. Alpenrösl - St Catharines, Ontario
    G.T.E.V. Alpenveilchen - Alexandria, VA
    G.T.E.V. D'Chiemgauer of Winnipeg - Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada
    G.T.E.V. D'Fröliche Schuhplattler - St Louis, MO
    G.T.E.V. D'Lustigen Isartaler - Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
    G.T.E.V. D'Oberlandler, Inc. - La Habra Heights, California
    G.T.E.V. Edelweiss, Inc. - Detroit, Michigan
    G.T.E.V. Maple Leaf Almrausch - Ottawa, Ontario
    G.T.E.V. Schlierachtaler Stamm - Franklin Square, New York
    G.T.V. Almrausch - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
    G.T.V. Annapolis Bavarians - Arnold, MD
    G.T.V. Edelweiß - Reading, Pennsylvania
    G.T.V. Germania Almrausch - Poughkeepsie, New York
    G.T.V. Immergrüen - Baltimore, MD
    Gemutlichen Enzianer - Maspeth, New York
    Germania Society S.T.V. - Cincinnati, Ohio
    Gulfcoast Enzianer Schuhplattler Verein, Inc. - Pinellas Park, Florida
    H.S.V. Bavaria - West Haven, Connecticut
    Heimat-Tänzer - Omaha NE
    S.G. Edelweiss, St Paul - St Paul, Minnesota
    S.G.T.E.V. Hirschjaeger - Richmond, VA
    S.G.T.V. Edelweiss Buffalo - Williamsville, New York
    SGTV. Alpenblumen - Providence, RI
    STV Bavaria - Cleveland, Ohio
    STV. Maiglöckchen - Daytona Beach, Florida
    STV Weiss Blau Bayern - Brampton, Ontario Canada
    SGTV"Washingtonia", Inc. - Washington, DC
    SV Blautaler - Kansas City, MO
    SVEV D'Oberlandler - Milwaukee, Wisconsin
    SV Heidengold - Rochester, New York
    Schuhplattler Gruppe Alpenrose, Inc. - Casselberry, Florida
    Schuhplattler VV "Original Enzian", Inc. - Glendale, New York
    Schuhplattler Verein Alpenklang - Troy, New York
    Schuhplattler Verein Edelweiss - Skokie, Illinois
    Schuhplattler Verein Enzian - Calgary, Alberta
    Schuhplattlergruppe Alpenland - Montreal, Quebec
    TEV Edelweiss - Commerce City, Colorado
    Texanischer Schuhplattler Verein - Dallas, Texas
    The Original Auherhahn Schuhplattlers of Miami - Miami, Florida
    Tiroler u. Bayern Zither Club of Los Angeles - North Hollywood, California
    United German Hungarians - Oakford, Pennsylvania
    Volkstanzgruppe Almrausch - Brampton, Ontario
    "Nur der ist seiner Ahnen wert, der ihre Sitten treu verehrt"

  6. #26
    Senior Member Annikaspapa's Avatar
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    Post Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    Now that I seem to be fixated on things "alpine" in nature - here is a bit of information on an instrument associated with the region:

    Everything That You Wanted To Know About The Alphorn

    by Christian Schneider


    History of the Alphorn
    The blowing of tube instruments has been practised for a very long time. Already the people of the Stone Age blew into hollow bones (warning whistles).
    We know cave-drawings of the Australian Didgeridoo still being blown the present days; they have an estimated age of 100'000 years. The Jew have known the "Schofar" already for 2000 years - the "Trumpets of Jericho"!
    The Gauls must have known a similar horn too! Once they had impressed Julius Caesar with this horn: within a short time they were able to make known dates of war and short messages by a signal over a considerable territory! And in the second century a.D. at the Swiss Vaud a scene of a shepherd with an instrument like an Alphorn, named LITUUS has been discovered on a roman mosaic.
    Long ago the special instrument with its peculiarity has already been estimated. In the year 1563, Prince Leonor of Orleans has taken an Alphornblower from Schwyz in his service. Because blowing on the nature trumpet was very difficult and much knowledge was required, the blowers in the 16th and 17th century have been highly respected people and have been closed together in a own guild.
    We know from the history of Switzerland how in critical times the "bull from Uri" (a long curved grown horn of a bull) brawled to the battle and how in the Peasant's War (1653) the peasants from the mountains in the "Entlebuch" assembled under the sound of an Alphorn and prepared for war.
    From the Middle Ages we know long straight wind-instruments which have got larger a wounded form (nature trumpets). Until the 15th century only nature instruments have been made. Our Alphorn therefore is a nature wind-instrument hold in good repair from ancient times that has not taken part in the development to a well tempered instrument.
    Asking for age and origin research workers are in doubt about, if the "Cornua alpina" of the southern Teutons of the mountains of which the Roman Tacitus is reporting, already has been the Alphorn of the present time. Furthermore we have to consider that the wooden or cortical shepherd's horn is not at all found only in the occidental Alps. Similar types of this instrument can be found in many foreign countries.


    THE HISTORY OF THE ALPHORN IN SWITZERLAND
    In the 9th century the monk Balbulus from St. Gallen has made notes to sequences that are very similar to dances of Alpine cowherds.
    1527 for the first time it has been written about Alphorns occurring in Switzerland. In an arithmetic book of the monastery of St. Urban the following notice had been made: "Two coins for a Valaisan with Alphorn". In these decades the Alphornblowing was misused for begging.
    1619 a learned man of music described how begging blowers were lolling about in the cities and begging for food. These begging blowers were in most cases Alpine cowherds, who did not earn enough money for their livelihood in winter.
    1653 the Alphorn blew the persons together for war, when the reserves were called out for the Peasants' War.
    In the 18th century learned travellers began to write down melodies for the Alphorn. A famous person who did so was Johannes Brahms: On 12 September 1868 he had heard near the Stockhorn a melody being blown with an Alphorn; he made a note of that on a postcard which he sent to Clara Schumann. At a later point of time he integrated this melody into the Symphony No. 1 in c-moll.
    Leopold Mozart has written the well-known Symphony Pastorella.
    Also poems have been written. But for centuries the government had tried to suppress a self-reliant national culture. Prohibitions of songs, dances and festivals have not proved ineffectual. The Alphorn was blown only rarely. But now the national culture began to reconstruct: festivals were celebrated, songs were sung, people enjoyed and danced. By that the Alphorn fell a bit into oblivion.
    On 17 August 1805 at the meadow named "Unspunnen" near Interlaken a festival of shepherds took place with the motto "For the honour of the Alphorn" which had been coined onto medals in memory of the festival. For this festival a competition for blowers had been organised, but only two Alphornblowers took part there.
    Things could not go on like that! Therefore the village mayor of Bern in those days gave to a music teacher from the Institutes of Fellenberg the following order: "Mr. Huber (that was his name), you are blowing the Alphorn, as I have heard. Now I would like to prevent that this wonderful national instrument will disappear from our mountains and valleys. I shall have made half a dozen new ones of them, if you would engage in going in the upland, looking there for six young people and teaching them in blowing the Alphorn, and I think, Grindelwald would be the best place for doing that."
    No sooner said than done! In the years 1826/27 Mr. Huber realised during the summer his courses in Alphornblowing. This impulse gave a fresh impetus to the Alphornblowing; the original shepherds' instrument was growing to a Swiss national symbol that could not anymore be imagined as absent.
    1805 the great shepherds' festival Unspunnen took place, that has been perpetuated by the coloured etching of J.G. Volkmer.
    1826 the first course in Alphornblowing managed by F.F. Huber took place in Grindelwald. At the instance of the cantonal president of Mülinen six Alphorns were handed over to young people who were obliged to practise active blowing outside.
    1827 the second course in Alphornblowing managed by F.F. Huber took place in Grindelwald. Again free instruments were handed over. The Alphorn was blown in 2 or 3 parts on divers hills.
    1869 Festival of Swiss cowherds at Siebnen. Noted down are 15 - 20 blowers. Report by Hch. Sczadrowsky.
    1876 Fair of alpine cowherds in Wäggithal. Six persons participated in the competition of blowers.
    1881 First competition of blowers in Muotathal. Report by Ernst Heim.
    1885 Second competition of blowers in Muotathal. Report by Ernst Heim. Final picture: Seven Alphorns blowing together.
    1910 Foundation of the Swiss Federal society of yodelers.
    1921 First Alphorn-day at Trueb, managed by J. R. Krenger of Interlaken. 12 participants. Owing to a donation of several thousand francs ten instruments could be handed over to young blowers.
    1924 Alphorn-day at Interlaken. Handing over of 13 Alphorns to young blowers.
    1938 The musician A.L. Gassmann enlivens the scene of the Alphorn lastingly with his working and his booklet "And blow the Alphorn once again for me".

    Various Alphorn Types
    Fundamentically the pitch of an Alphorn is defined by its length.
    Fis-Alphorn: 3.40 m (is standard pitch in switzerland)
    F- Alphorn: 3.60 m
    E- Alphorn: 3.90 m
    As-Alphorn: 3.00 m
    B- Büchel: 2.70 m
    C- Büchel: 2.20 m


    The Fis/Ges-Alphorn
    The alphorn in Fis-Ges pitch is the established one in switzerland. The reason why, may be because of the fine sound of the Fis-horn. It's clear and resonant, but also typically soft. Sure, it's length plays a role as well. 3.40 meters is yust handy enough. In its three part construction it matches well into a car's boot. Fis-Alphorns are well suited for concerts in churches, together with the organ. There exists also a handfull of music notes for alphorn with organ. Music notes for brassbands and Fis-alphorn you will find as well. The Fis-alphorn sometimes is used in a very attracive way in classic orchestras.

    Philosophy about the Alphorn
    It's just because of its overwhelming simplicity that the Alphorn is a very pretentious instrument.
    The Alphorn can be compared with the originality of a simple pencil. We all remember how hard it was to learn writing with the pencil. Over a long time in our precious early days we had learned the handling with the pencil. It has been a long way from the first character "A" to a good written letter of application. But a simple pencil and a piece of paper are enough for a good writer to mediate his feelings, tell about his experience or show his knowledge. And just all these you may also express by blowing your Alphorn.
    Even with a simple wooden instrument as the pencil is we are able to express feelings, enjoyment, temperament as well as silence and piece and bring over to other people.
    If we compare the Alphorn with other music instruments it seems totally to be out-of-date. Even a piano is a much more extraordinary instrument, a product of scientific research and also of long investigation of people of more than one generation. It needs years of education to become a perfect player of this instrument.
    The Alphorn is a simple instrument. You even do not need "finger-acrobatics" for blow-holes. Nevertheless it is one of the instruments that make the most claims on its user. The conical pipe is only an amplifier; it needs the blower, the surroundings, the power, the balance to produce the typical sustaining sound of the Alphorn. The Alphorn-blower does his exercise not only for having done it but also for meditation, he likes to be in harmony and balance. He learns from being in harmony with the nature at a woodland or maybe in the mountains.
    But he also has to be willing to learn further through his whole life from this instrument. The nature tones on the wooden conical pipe are very difficult to get by blowing so that it needs much training, if possible every day, to be able to be master of it. Equivalent to these efforts the Alphorn presents such an absolutely solitary brilliancy of sound and fantastic possibilities of dynamic creativeness. Beyond that it is also necessary to have knowledge of all other elements of creativeness in music as there are articulation, phrasing, tempo and its variations. Alphorn-blowers are masters in producing sound. Blowing the Alphorn is meditation, a style of life.
    Blowing the Alphorn may also be a kind of therapy or simply a compensation to hard business. Who knows well blowing this instrument cannot have lost balance.
    Maybe it sounds a bit surprising but although we live in a sometimes very hectic time the Alphorn may bring to a growing number of people about a real help for having a higher quality of life.
    "Nur der ist seiner Ahnen wert, der ihre Sitten treu verehrt"

  7. #27
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    Post Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    Quote Originally Posted by Annikaspapa
    While on the topic of Bavarian "fashions" - those in the States and Canada may be interested in knowing that there are a number of societies dedicated to preserving the customs and traditions of the region. More information can be found at: http://gauverbandnordamerika.org/
    You didn't list the Daughters of Norway.

    http://www.daughtersofnorway.org/

  8. #28
    You are not wrong, who deem / That my days have been a dream Johannes de León's Avatar
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    Post Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    Quote Originally Posted by Sigrun Christianson
    You didn't list the Daughters of Norway.

    http://www.daughtersofnorway.org/


    Is this a traditional dress???
    .

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    Post Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    Quote Originally Posted by Johannes de León
    Is this a traditional dress???
    Hey! They were busy cooking! Cut them some slack!

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    You are not wrong, who deem / That my days have been a dream Johannes de León's Avatar
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    Post Re: Germanic Folk Dress

    Quote Originally Posted by Sigrun Christianson
    Hey! They were busy cooking! Cut them some slack!
    The woman on the right is wearing a traditional dress, methinks.
    .

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